Help with rebuilds

Several owners doing rebuilds have suggested that it would be useful if there was somewhere where they can ask for specific assistance, for example for pictures of specific items that may be very damaged or missing on their boats. This is that section! Please ask your questions and leave your answers below or email them to – thanks very much!


15 Responses to “Help with rebuilds”

  1. Ben Hudd Says:

    Hi. I’m renovating a mk 2 Corribee and was wondering if anyone knew where I could get replacement windows for her? Thanks

  2. PHILIPPE Says:

    Bonjour les amis,
    Je viens d’acquérir un Corribee 21 biquilles à restaurer.Quelqu’un peut il me renseigner sur le poids du lest et où est il situé ?
    Je vis à St Maarteen In Caribbean.
    Thank you for your help.

    • Catherine Says:

      Salut Philippe ma souer a St Raphael vient aussi d,acheter un corribee , perso je suis en Australie, mais je l,aide a traduire l,anglais, Elle vient de le sortir de l,eau , son lest est dans la quille et elle a percent Les cliques d,osmosis, de l,eau rouillee coule , je pense que son lest est en fer ..perso j,avais similar voiler en Australie, mais Mon lest etait en plumb..le problem avec le lest en fer Ca rouille ..j,espere que ton lest esten plomb

  3. Joshua Says:

    I’ve recently purchased a mk1 corribee 21. It needs a complete restoration, I have particularly gutted the cabin however the “original” flock finish which had been painted over in the past (becoming crusty) is proving to be a challenge to remove. I have tried using scrappers and chisels to remove it but this is proving to be very time consuming! Any suggestions to removing the crusty flock?

  4. phil austin Says:

    Hi, I think my mk 2 fin keel coribee is under-ballasted, I only sailed her a few times last year but found her to be particularly tender, she has the original large genoa and main but this seems to be overpowered even in fairly gentle conditions, f3 or 4 gusts pushes her way over into a broach, and she sits with a good 5 or 6 inches of antifoul showing above the water ( I understand of course this may have been painted too high by previous owners) I am considering opening up the keel from above to see what is down there, and perhaps adding more ballast, probably punchings set in resin and glassed over, but would welcome advise from the forum

  5. adam986a Says:

    The sliders are made of Tufnol (1.5 to 2mm), the Whale grade being best. I’ll get my pictures sometime today, had to do a very similar job on my boat.

  6. Peter dawson Says:

    I have just bought a mk 1 corribee and the rudder is bent so that it will not quite clear the bottom of the hull and so she can’t be steered. Under the headstock their are 3 inches of plastic sleeves so I’m thinking there is scope for a temporary fix by lowering the shared 1 cm. Can anyone advise and in particular about what kind of seal I need where the shaft enters the hull. Cheers

    • scorribee Says:

      I’ve only just noticed your post, so this may be a bit late. The rudder shaft should have some sort of bearing at the top and bottom of the shaft to locate it within the rudder tube – maybe Tufnol in the Mk 1’s. No seal is required as the top of the rudder tube should be well above the waterline. Unlike, say, a propellor shaft, the rudder does not have to cope with much in the way of rotational load or speed, so a bit of slack in the bearings is not a problem. Be wary of using nylon if you make your own bearings as it swells appreciably in water and can seize the rudder completely.

  7. Johnny Torrens-Spence Says:

    I’m re-fitting a 1978 Mk 2 bilge keel Corribee. Does anyone know where the water tank should be? I presume under the cockpit (I’ve got a water filler cap on the cockpit front seat – just by the hatchway). But the space is small – where can you get a tank that fits? Johnny

    • scorribee Says:

      I’m not sure that there was ever a ‘standard’ water tank. Unless you want to have a go at making one yourself, or going to the expense of getting a welded polythene tank made by someone like TekTanks, I would recommend an off-the-shelf flexible plastic tank. It will fit anywhere, and through a small opening, and you will be able to remove it for washing out and sterilising. When fitting you just need to take care that there are no sharp edges or bits of spikey grp that could cause a puncture.

    • Adam Says:

      I had the same question when restoring my Coromandel and settled on putting a plastimo triangular tank in the storage space under the bow cushions. That may be different in a Corribee, it works very well for me. I use the original filler location (same as yours) and I ran a 38 mm pipe up to the tank.

  8. Pete Lloyd Says:

    Hi Can anyone help me I have recently bought a Mark 11 Bilge keel Corribee 21 and have totally gutted her. I am trying to design a better anchor drain arrangement than the current bilge draining option does anyone have any ideas.

    • scorribee Says:

      Later Corribees have an anchor locker – the bulkhead is a piece of plywood glassed in place, and there is a small triangular ‘floor’ glassed into the bottom. A drain hole drilled through the hull allows water (from the anchor warp) to drain away. The problem is the hatch – triangular in shape – which would have to be fabricated from grp.
      Alternatively, Jake Kavanagh worte an article about building an anchor locker in Practical Boat Owner, possibly in 2008. You may be able to locate a back issue by getting in touch with PBO or even posting on the PBO section of the YBW forum

  9. ecorribee Says:

    Does anybody have a close up picture of a companion way hatch, sliders and retaining woodwork open and closed? I have a very distressed Mk2 and have the hatch itself and the wooden rails that retain it but nothing else. Are there supposed to be rails of some type for the hatch to slide on? If so, what size are they and what are they made of? Are there any other components to this mechanism – some kind of seal for example? Any assistance and photos gratefully received!

    • adam986a Says:

      Sorry, left this in the wrong place. The hatch runners are made from Tufnol Whale 2mm – I bought mine from as a sheet of 1200×300 which they cut into (as far as I remember) 5 strips for me (£5 for the cutting). The part number was TUWS0204, cost was £18.00. These strips should be the same width as the wooden rails for the hatch and they go between the rails and the top of the cabin. The rails are attached by screws from inside the boat (need to drill the tufnol!). There is no seal for the hatch.
      I can’t post a photo, but if you look at this one
      it is a reasonable close up of the finished job and there are others (including making the rails) in the same album.

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