Woodwork

There is a fair amount of exterior and interior woodwork in Corribees and Coromandels. Much of the interior is fitted out with varnished mahogany-faced plywood, along with a variety of hardwoods for the framing. Exterior wood (e.g. handrails, hatch slides, rubbing strakes etc.) is almost always iroko. If you are replacing any of the solid wood, iroko is obviously a good choice as it is as durable as teak and less expensive. It is, however, not so nice to work with – the dust is an irritant and the wood can warp out of shape after machining.

The models below are scale models built with the free version of the CAD software Google SketchUp. If you click on the static pictures, you can download a 3D PDF file which allows you view the object from all sides and make measurements. Please note that you will need to use the latest version of AdobeAcrobat Reader to view 3D PDFs. Third party PDF viewers such as Preview supplied with Mac OS X typically can not view 3D PDFs.

Overview

The diagram below shows where the individual parts listed on this page are installed.

Mk2 Corribee

Please note that while the dimensions of the parts in the overview diagram below are accurate, the positioning of the parts is approximate at the moment.

20090912_WoodenPartsLayout

Exterior

Coach roof long grab handles

These are usually made from iroko.

20090829_CoachroofGrabHandle_eCorribee

Cockpit surround

Mk 1 only. Measurements of this item required for modeling. If you are able to provide these measurements we would be very grateful.

Companionway grab handles

These are usually made from iroko.

20090829_HatchGrabHandle_eCorribee

Companionway hatch handle

This is made of hardwood, probably iroko.

20090829_HatchHandle_eCorribee

Companionway hatch retainers and slides

The retainers are usually made from iroko. The slide itself is a 1.8 mm thick composite material, possibly some sort of Tufnol. A good substitute if you’re refurbishing them would be Formica, which can be bonded to the wood with epoxy resin. Please note that the model below is of replacement parts which are different from the original design.

20090829_HatchRetainer_eCorribee

sCorribee has made the following model and drawing of the original hatch slider profile.

20090903_HatchSlide_StevePavey

Cross-section of slide:

20090903_HatchSlide_CrossSection_StevePavey

The diagram below shows a cross section of the arrangement of the hatch in the runner, more or less to scale. The hatch is actually quite a loose fit in the slides, with around 2 mm to 4 mm clearance around the mouldings. I suspect it varies between boats as well! Overall length is 1058 mm, large radius at each end is approximately 25 mm, and the small radius along the top edges is around 3 mm. The best way to position the slides is to dry-fit the whole lot together so that it looks right, then use a couple of small woodscrews fitted from inside just to locate them (there are typically already some holes in the coachroof where the originals were fitted). Mine seem to be through-bolted with countersunk 6 mm machine screws, nuts and penny washers on the inside, with iroko plugs to cover the m/c screw heads.

hatch slide x_sect1

The photo shows what this arrangement looks like for real:

Hatch slide detail

Hatch slide detail

Incidentally, if you’re doing a lot of refitting, it would be worth ordering a load of A4 fixings from somewhere like A2A4.co.uk, as they’ll be much cheaper than your local chandlery in my experience. It’s also worth buying a plug cutter and matching drill from Axminster, but you really need a pillar drill to cut the plugs.

Ensign staff

These can be made of pine or mahogany.

20090829_EnsignStaff_eCorribee

Fore hatch grab handles

These are usually made from iroko.

20090829_HatchGrabHandle_eCorribee

Headlining

The headlining panels are 4 mm plywood covered with some kind of material which looks like vinyl.

20090912_HeadliningVents

Rubbing strakes

These are made of hardwood, probably iroko. Please note that while the profile of the rubbing strakes in this diagram is to scale, the lengths and paths are approximate.

20090830_RubbingStrakes

Tiller

This is made of hardwood, probably iroko.

20090829_Tiller_eCorribee

Standard pattern tiller suitable for most mk 2 and mk 3 Corribees:

20090914_tiller_long_srp

The drawing above is for a tiller to suit the fitting shown in the following photos:

1. A short pattern tiller in mahogany, shown here with a fitting for a Raymarine Tiller Pilot:

Short pattern tiller

Short pattern tiller

2, Close up of the fitting:

Tiller fitting

Tiller fitting

3. Tiller cover – to protect the varnish finish

Tiller cover

Tiller cover

Washboards

9 mm marine plywood. Solid wood trim, sometimes iroko or mahogany. If making new replacements it would be worth using a mahogany or teak faced marine ply, and either lipping the edges with solid wood trim or sealing with epoxy resin before varnishing. It is also worth considering making a duplicate set from cheaper Weather and Boil Proof (WBP) or even shuttering grade plywood and painting them – this second set can be used in the winter.

Upper washboard

20090829_UpperWashboard_eCorribee

Lower washboard

20090829_LowerWashboard_eCorribee

Interior

Chain locker door

The main section of the door is made out of 9 mm plywood. The handle and the tab are made from some kind of hardwood. The handle is attached with a M4 screw of unknown length. The tab is nailed to the door with two small nails.

20090905_ChainLockerDoor

Cooker unit

Coming soon

Cushion retainers

These are made from 9 mm plywood. They appear to be screwed onto the inner hull molding with M4 screws of unknown length. There is one short rectangle with round ends, two long rectangles with rounded ends and two that are paddle shaped.

20090905_CushionRetainerShort

20090905_CushionRetainerLong

20090905_CushionRetainerPaddle

Locker covers

These are made of 6 mm plywood.

20090905_LockerCoverBow

20090906_LockerCoverForwardPortAndStarboard

20090906_LockerCoverStarboardAmidships

20090906_LockerCoverAftPortAndStarboard

These are made of 9 mm plywood:

20090906_LockerCoverForwardBilge

Quarterberth boards

These are made of 6 mm plywood and are the same for port and starboard.

20090912_QuarterberthBoard

Sink unit

Coming soon

Steps

These are made of hardwood, probably iroko.

20090905_StepLower

20090903_Step

Table

Coming soon

Toilet retainer

Coming soon

Contribute

Do you have a story, information, brochure, manual, link or other relevant content that should be on this page? If so, we would be very grateful if you would leave it as a comment or email corribeeeditors@googlemail.com so we can post here – thanks!

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9 Responses to “Woodwork”

  1. nigel B Says:

    hi , have been looking for a decent hatch profile for days now and thankfully yours foots the bill perfectly…

    thank you
    Narrowboat “its the feeling”

  2. colin powell Says:

    Coromandel (x2)

    Rubbing strakes are made from Iroko.

    All grab handles and slides are made from Danta.

    Iroko would be a better choice for hatch slides – mine have rotted out due to standing rainwater. Stay with Danta for the handles – it was chosen because it has a cross-linked grain. You’ll need to through-bolt if you use Iroko/ Teak etc.

    Email me if you want measurements of the original hatch slides.

    • scorribee Says:

      Strange – I haven’t heard of Danta before, and it’s not shown on the Robbins Timber website – is that a local name for something else? My Corribee definitely uses iroko for all the exterior woodwork including the grab handles and grab rails.

      • colin powell Says:

        Update:
        Iroko is specified on the Newbridge ‘Standard Boat Specification’ sheet, Jan.1980, for all exterior woodwork, including rubbing strakes.

        (BTW, these spec sheets are on the reverse of the Newbridge Order Form.)

        The Jan.1982 Specification Sheet specifies Danta for all exterior woodwork, with the exception of the rubbing strakes, which are listed as Iroko. I’d never heard of Danta before this.

        Presumably Danta must confer some advantage over Iroko – otherwise, why change the spec ? Especially as Iroko is a far more common timber.

        Danta’s scientific name is Nesogordonia Papaverifera, and alternative names are: Kotibe (Ivory Coast), Otutu (Nigeria), Owoe (Cameroon), Arborbo (Gabon), Kondofindo (Zaire), Naouya (Angola), Abumana, Akumaba, Epro (Ghana).

        It’s listed in http://fp1.centurytel.net/amww/wood.html and
        http://www.unctad.org/infocomm/anglais/timbertrop/characteristics.htm

        Hope this helps/clarifies.

  3. J wilkey Says:

    I have purchased a Trapper 28 but came across your web site by accident/ cross ref. All I can say is well done! What a fantistic, useful, informative, technically literate bunch Especially the woodwork input. Keep it up
    J w

  4. Jay Blackburn Says:

    My hatch just slides on Tufnol strip about 1″ wide and not much thicker than formica. No woodwork under it.

  5. Declan McKinney Says:

    YM Sep ’82 Coromandel review states that the internal woodwork is ‘varnished mahogany ply’.

  6. Jay Blackburn Says:

    These Drawings are very nice but need dimensions and details. I am in the process of making new companionway slides and to do so from the drawings is impossible. However Its a great job of rendition !!

    • ecorribee Says:

      I’m working on it. These have been built to scale using Google Sketchup and if you open the source files in Sketchup you can get all the dimensions. However, WordPress (where this blog is hosted), does not allow Google Sketchup files to be posted. This should be solved in a day or two – please be patient! By the way, are you also making the rails that the hatch slides on? If so, do you know what materials they are made out of and their dimensions? I have all the woodwork but not the rails and need their dimensions.

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