The standard hatch on a Corribee is a grp moulding, though the shape varies according to the age of the boat. The Mk 2 has a rectangular hatch but the later models have a slightly larger trapezoidal shaped opening (which will be a bit more difficult to modify). The central section is non-pigmented – not exactly transparent, even when new, and fairly opaque after a few years of exposure to the sun. It also lacks strength and is prone to jamming when it has been stepped on. Casulen II’s hatch, shown below, is a Vetus Planus. Some modification of the existing opening is needed to ensure that it is bolted down to a flat surface. The flange is sealed in place with a suitable marine sealant and, like the windows above, has been subjected to some very wet sailing conditions without leaking.
The following comments from owners may be of interest:
I could really do with some advice. I have had a really bad two years, and in quick succession had stolen my much cursed long shaft 5hp Seagull, lost my fore hatch cover (vanished who knows where leaving a very wet boat when I discovered it a few weeks of winter rain later), and broke the roller furling mechanism on my boom. (1979 mark 2 Corribee called Prawn).
We lost our forehatch as well. We went to the local chandlers and got some catalogues to browse through, and now have a much improved hinged hatch with opening acrylic window. It looks much better than the old one, and is much more practical. The make we ended up with is a Vetus Planus escape hatch, Dutch I think. I don’t have an exact model number. It was necessary to sand down the hatchway to get it flat before fitting, and it does not leak at all. Hope this helps
I have an eye fixed to the rear of my forehatch with a length of shockcord(bungey) led through it and back to another eye under the deck. this is a good “preventer”, should the forehatch latches fail. The length of the shockcord may be adjusted to allow the hatch to open fully and will stop the hatch from blowing away if not closed.
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